Ice, ice, baby
-Vanilla Ice
Overview: a last-minute tramp up to Powell Hut finds an unanticipated winter wonderland on Mount Holdsworth.
I recall in the lead up to my first overnight tramp - Sunrise Hut, aged 10-ish, with the Pahiatua Scout Group - the comment by one of the leaders that it was entirely possible we'd wake up to snow around the hut. We did not, but ever since then a part of me has always wanted that to happen on any winter excursion into the back country. Well, some 18 years later it finally happened.
Mid-week I'd decided get a tramp in before the end of August. Not wanting to drive too far, but also wanting some altitude in the hopes of finding snow, I settled on Powell Hut Mk. IV.
It was a somewhat damp walk up the hill, with a light misty rain hanging heavy in the air. Passing Holdsworth Lodge and crossing the footbridge over the Atiwhakatu Stream, the track to Powell Hut begins with an easy stroll toward Donnelly Flat. After a couple of well sign posted junctions the Gentle Annie track begins meandering it's way uphill.
An hour after starting I'd reached Rocky Lookout, though their wasn't much to see this time.
The thick cloud continued to hide any views above the bushline and an icy breeze whipped through the air. It was a good thing then that I soon arrived at the hut to find the fire already being lit by a trio that had arrived shortly before I did.
Later that evening, the mist began to turn in to sporadic flurries of snow, becoming more persistent as night set in. Inside, the fire was keeping everyone toasty as we watched the snow coming down through the windows.
Opting to make the most of the fortuitous snowfall, I head out in the direction of Holdsworth peak rather than heading straight back down the hill. The fresh snow was soft, but deep in places. And despite the sky being a dull, uniform grey, the snow was bright and glarey.
The weather was highly changeable, at times gusty winds and persistent snow, other times eerily still. The track here is not especially challenging, though the snow makes it harder to follow at times. It's about 1.6 km from Powell Hut to the peak of Mt Holdsworth, taking me about an hour in the wintry conditions.
After stopping in very briefly at the trig, it was time to head off in the direction of Jumbo. From the signpost just below the peak, the track drops steeply. The icy slope was a tad more treacherous than it would otherwise be, and part way down I had the thought that it probably would've been quicker (and safer) to just scoot down on my rump. The track continues along the ridge, shortly reaching a signposted junction for the the East Holdsworth Spur.
Following the right-branching track leads out across a thin ridgeline, eventually descending toward the tree line. I frequently had no idea whether where I was walking was actually where the track was meant to be but never the less I ended up in the right place.
The east Holdsworth track is fairly steep, a typical Tararua root-scrambly, knee-jarring descent - a lot of altitude is shed quite quickly. Snow persisted throughout the gnarled beech forest down to around 800m. It's slow going, with a particularly steep section mid way down.
It's always nice to see a new patch of the back country, and the East Holdsworth was no exception. Eventually, the gradient levels out somewhat, and the Holdsworth Creek comes into view down a steep bank from the track. The path of the creek is followed until the Atiwhakatu Track is reached.
It's another 4 km or so back to the carpark, but the Atiwhakatu Track is well graded and easy going - a welcome relief from the steep descent that preceded it. About an hour later I was back at the carpark, ready to put on some gloriously dry clothes for the drive home.
A thoroughly delightful tramp, and a winter wonderland I'd been hoping for for as long as I've gone tramping in winter.
Times and Distances:
Holdsworth carpark to Rock Lookout: 3.24 km, 63 min
Rocky Lookout to Mountain House Shelter: 2.95 km, 50 min
Outbound:
Powell Hut to Holdsworth Peak: 1.65 km, 59 min
Peak to East Holdsworth turn-off: 0.59 km, 24 min
Turn-off to Atiwhakatu Track: 4.20 km, 2hr50min
Atiwhakatu Track to Carpark: 4.08 km, 1hr06min
Total: 10.52 km, 5 hours 19 min
Map:
Altitude Profile:
