Overview: an overnight tramp to Whakapapaiti Hut in Tongariro NP, entering on the lower silica rapids and whakapapaiti valley tracks. Returning via the Round-the-Mountain track, Bruce Road, and the upper silica rapids track. Tramp #1 of a three-day trip to the mountains. 31st July - 1st August 2024.
From an unremarkable gravel parking area just up the road from the Tongariro National Park visitor centre, the lower silica rapids/whakapapaiti valley track immediately crosses the whakapapanui stream and meanders through mountain beech forest for almost 1 km where it emerges into a red tussock bog. In clear weather, there are great views of Ruapehu. Shortly before the tussocks, a golden-orange stream is crossed, coloured by a thick iron-based mineral deposit on the stream bed. The track thus far is fairly easy-going and well formed.
1.4 km from the start, a bridge crosses the Waikare stream and a junction is reached. The left track is the silica rapids walk. I take the right-hand path to continue on the Whakapapaiti valley track. Back in the beech forest, the track undulates along the hillside, crossing a few gullies where the loose, easily eroded volcanic soil gives no purchase to any substantial plant life. Charming old signs identify these gullies with epithets ranging from "the chute" to the laconic "slippery gully."
Eventually, another tussocky expanse is crossed by boardwalk, before drop briefly through a small patch of forest to reach a footbridge spanning the Whakapapaiti River, 4.25 km from the junction.
From here, the track climbs up through more forest, reaching a turn-off for the Mangahuia Track. I continue onwards, shortly emerging into yet another swathe of swampy tussockland, stretching up the full length of the valley. Boardwalks are absent here, and that absence is noticeable.
The ground trail is frequently waterlogged and often resembles the appearance of a braided river where different trampers have squelched through the scrub in slightly different ways. Regular marker posts make it easy to stay on the right heading.
After just over 1 km, the Whakapapaiti river must be crossed again. Some stairs descend the steep bank into a boulder strewn river bed that dwarfs the size of the river itself. A warning sign instructs me not to attempt to cross after or during heavy rain. The sheer size of the river bed makes it easy to imagine why.
It may well be possible to find a place to boulder-hop to the other side, particularly in the drier months, but I crossed more-or-less directly between marker posts. The stream is energetic and has some push to it, but barely makes it up my shin at the deepest point.
Leaving the river bed, the track follows a branch of the whakapapaiti for about another 800 m before arriving at Whakapapaiti Hut. It's only been less than 3 hours on the trail, but I'm thrilled all the same.
Before I take off wet boots and get too comfortable, it's time to bring in some firewood and chop some kindling.
The hut is a Lockwood-style structure, dating from the 1960s, like many of the huts in Tongariro National Park. A large decking at the front has a brilliant outlook up the valley to Mt Ruapehu. Inside there's a main communal area and bunks, plus a separate bunkroom.
There is a batten light fitting on the central beam of the main room, though no switch to be found. A prank designed to bamboozle other hut users perhaps?
It's been pretty sunny all day, and easy to keep warm while walking, but the temperature drops away as the sun sets. Thankfully I'd arrived early enough to have the hut well warmed by the fire by the time night fell.
The next morning was dreary and icy cold, and alas my boots had not dried out overnight. It was a relatively early start, to make sure I had enough time for tramp no. 2 later in the day. The initial plan for the day was to return the same way I came in, but this had morphed into the the idea of making a loop - so when I set off, it was to head further up the valley.
The track initially follows a nearby stream. A short distance from the hut there's a small waterfall. Getting further up the valley, views open up to the dramatic volcanic rock formations at the head of the valley. Several waterfalls plunge over distant cliffs. It is at once foreboding and yet strangely enticing.
900 m from the hut, the track intersects with the Round-the-Mountain track. I turn left to begin the zig-zag ascent up and over a moraine ridge.
After the ridge, the track crosses a rocky expanse, terminating at the scoria flat carpark on Bruce Road. The track is predominantly not a formed surface so it's not conducive to fast travel, but perhaps that's for the best since it means more time to take in the surrounding landscape.
The upper silica rapids track crosses open tussock for about 1.6 km before reaching the eponymous rapids. The rapids are so named due to alumina and silicate mineral layer deposited by the enriched spring water. The water emerges from the spring laden with these minerals and gasses, the rapids create turbulence in the water that releases dissolved gasses, reducing acidity and making the minerals less soluble leading to their deposition on the stream bed.
About 1.5 km from the rapids, the lower silica rapids/whakapapaiti valley track is reached. From here it's a short walk back to the carpark.
It took me just over 3.5 hours to get back, and it was now time to drive round to Ohakune for tramp #2 of this trip.
The whakapapaiti loop had been a great start to the trip. Varied landscapes, good hut, never that challenging but not too easy either. Tongariro National Park never disappoints.
Times and Distances:
Parking Area to Silica Rapids turn-off: 1.44 km, 22 min
Mangahuia Turn-off to Whakapapaiti Hut: 2.29 km, 49 min
Total: 8.15 km, 2 hr 55 min
Outbound:
Whakapapaiti Hut to Round the Mountain Track: 901 m, 30 min
RTM Junction to Scoria Flat: 2.28 km, 68 min
Scoria Flat to Upper Silica Rapids Trailhead: 2.68 km, 32 min
Trailhead to Rapids: 1.63 km, 36 min
Rapids to Whakapapaiti Track: 1.65 km, 29 min
Track junction to Parking Area: 1.44 km, 21 min
Total: 10.58 km, 3 hr 36 min
Map
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Elevation Profiles:
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