Cobb & Co. Part 2: Sylvester Hut

Overview: a quick and easy tramp to the brilliantly located Sylvester Hut makes for a satisfying follow-up to the preceding tramp to Fenella Hut.

After completing the overnight tramp to Fenella Hut, I spent the night at the road-end Trilobite Hut, planning on a sleep-in before driving to the other end of the Cobb Reservoir for the Sylvester track. 
As it transpired, I'd had Trilobite to myself for the evening until I was so rudely intruded upon by a pair I assumed to be mother and son arriving after dark. To cut a long story short, I ended up waking early, topping up the firewood, and leaving by around 8:30 am.

The road to the Sylvester Track parking area crosses the Cobb Dam, then continues as a rough gravel track to the parking area. I stopped at the dam have a snack in the morning sun overlooking the reservoir to kill a little time before beginning today's walk - I was expecting only a 2-3 hour walk so starting early seemed a tad unnecessary. Close to 10 am I eventually began.

The track is an old Forest Service-era four wheel drive track, so it's wide, even and well graded.  The first 1.3km are mostly flat and grassy, passing through a mix of low shrub and beech forest with views over the Cobb Reservoir. This stretch passes quickly, after which the climb begins.

 

As the ascent starts, the track enters towering beech forest. The bright sun sits at low angle and the dappled light shining through the trees is aggressively contrasting. The track climbs through a series of switchbacks, so although the climb is constant it isn't very steep. The climb begins at around 840 m, and once reaching an altitude of around 1220 m the forest is swapped for the stunted trees and tussocks of exposed alpine ridges. Views abound here - Lockett Range to the northwest, Mt Peel and Mt Arthur to the south, the upper stretches of the Wharepapa/Arthur Range to the southeast, and Golden Bay and the Abel Tasman National Park to the distant northeast. 

The ascent lets up from here, though it hasn't ceased entirely. Along the ridge I spot Sylvester Hut perched on the tussocky tops. It's tantalising, but still about a kilometre away, and despite the appearance of the map contours, there's a small dip before the last little ascent. 

Shortly before the hut, the trees drop away and the surrounding peaks and ridges create a stunning alpine tableau. 

 The hut has a great location and large double-glazed windows make the most of it. The abundant sunlight streaming in warms the hut nicely. After a coffee and a short rest, I head out on a short side trip up to the Sylvester Lakes.

The track continues west along the ridge and remains a high standard. The rugged rocky ridge of Iron Hill dominates the horizon. It's an easy 1 km amble to Lake Sylvester.

The track, as marked on Topo50 maps, continues around the lake edge, first swinging to the south and then back to the west. There are no physical markers, and the track is overgrown with tussock in places. Getting lost would still be difficult though. 
I walk slowly, stopping often to take photos and just soak it all in. After another kilometre, Little Sylvester Lake is reached. The marked track ends near a small cairn where a tiny creek drains from Little Sylvester to Sylvester. An unofficial track continues on, apparently completing a loop past Iron Lake and back around to Sylvester Hut. I was feeling lazy so did no further exploring, though it certainly seemed like it'd be spectacular. Perhaps, I ponder, a good reason to return someday.

Little Sylvester Lake

Back at the hut, I chop some firewood and get the fire ready to light for when the warmth inevitably departs.
The clear skies made for a great sunset and a starry night. With the fire ticking away, it's a cosy evening.

 I woke in time to watch the sunrise, which managed to outshine (pun intended) the sunset. After breakfast and brew, it was time to clean up and head out.

The return journey is a quick and easy walk. The local birdlife was out in force, an abundance of bellbirds filled the forest with their song for the entirety of the track. It's incredible to experience. I try and take some photos but between the glary sun and the way the birds hid and flitted constantly among the high treetops made that near-impossible.

All too soon I was back at the car. Once again ahead of the schedule I'd built in my head several months prior from scant information, but satisfied nonetheless. 

Map:

Elevation Profile:

Times and Distances:

Car park to Sylvester Hut: 5.33 km, 1 hr 49 min inbound, 1 hr 38 min out.

Sylvester Hut to end of Sylvester Lakes Track: 1.96 km, approx 40 min.